Washer & Dryer Removal in Brunswick, GA

Washer and dryer removal is the kind of job where the work that matters happens before the lift. Water supply hoses need to be hand-disconnected. Dryer venting needs to come loose without pulling the duct out of the wall.

Gas dryers come out too — the gas side just gets handled first. When a gas line needs disconnecting, that’s normally handled by you or a licensed pro. Show us what you have and where it is, and we’ll help figure out what’s needed and work around it. We’ll unplug the electrical and pull the vent hose, and once the gas side is genuinely safe we take the machine from there.

Front-load washers are the surprise on almost every one of these jobs. They’re built with concrete counterweights inside the drum housing to keep the machine from walking across the floor on a spin cycle — fifty to eighty pounds of concrete, sitting on top of the steel drum, the motor and the body. A typical front-loader lands somewhere around 200 to 250 pounds. People watch two grown men strain on a washing machine and say “it’s just a washer.” It’s a washer with a cinder block hidden inside it.

The other thing we ask about on the phone is whether the machine died mid-cycle, because a washer that quit with a full tub is holding thirty or forty gallons — another 250 to 330 pounds of water on top of everything else. We drain it before it moves. Most machines have an emergency drain hose or a filter at the bottom front, and we let gravity do the work into a bucket. If it won’t drain, we tip it carefully toward a floor drain or outside. Either way, the water is out before the washer goes near a staircase — a full tub on the stairs is how somebody gets hurt badly, and no schedule is worth it.

Once the connections are clean, the rest is a dolly carry. Most washers and dryers come out the same door they went in, no surprises. Stacked units have to come apart first, which means lifting a 120- to 150-pound dryer down off the top of a washer at chest height — extra hands, good footing, and a decided-in-advance spot to set it down. Some stacking kits bolt the two together, so those brackets come off before anybody tries to separate them.

What we run into more often than people expect is the disconnection itself — shutoff valves that haven’t been turned in fifteen years sometimes don’t want to move. We’ll work them loose where they’ll go, and there’s always a towel ready because there is residual water in those lines every single time. But if a valve is corroded to the point that closing it means forcing it, we stop and tell you it’s a plumber’s call. Forcing a seized valve to save ourselves a trip is how a laundry room becomes a flood.